CYPRICHROMIS LEPTOSOMA
by Len Reback
Reprinted from "The Shoreline" / Jersey Shore Aq. Soc. - Dec 2004
If there is such a thing as an underrated Rift Lake cichlid, Cyprichromis leptosoma is it. C. leptosoma is sometimes known as the "cyp" (pronounced "sip") and sometimes as the "blue flash", although the latter term is more often used to identify a particular variety of cyp. Sometimes it is also referred to as the "sardine cichlid", which is a reference to it's streamlined body. It is a colorful, mouthbrooding cichlid from Lake Tanganyika that would make an excellent addition to many Tanganyikan tanks.
The typical color pattern for a male is bright blue, with some yellow on the fins and either a blue or yellow tail. The male cyp in good condition can be a striking sight. Unfortunately, the females are much less colorful, primarily a pleasing beige with perhaps some yellow in the fins ( depending on the variety). But as we shall see below, even the less colorful females are not as much of a disadvantage as many other mouthbrooding cichlids.
The primary benefit the "cyp" has as an aquarium resident over virtually all it's relatives is it's habitat preference. Unlike nearly every other cichlid, the cyp does not require contact with the substrate. It is a mid-water swimmer, just like barbs or tetras. Since they do not compete for scarce substrate habitats, caves or shells, the cyp can be added to many setups without hindering the substrate spawners in the tank.
Another benefit the Cyprichromis has over most Tanganyikan mouthbrooders is it's relative hardiness. While this is not an "industrial strength" cichlid like some lamprologines, it will not drop dead at the first missed water change or just because you looked at it funny, as with many other Tanganyikan mouthbrooders. While they may show some stress if tank maintenance becomes lax, they will survive for quite awhile under less than ideal conditions, allowing the situation to be rectified. Typical Tanganyikan water conditions - hard, alkaline and clean - are ideal for cyps.
Also, unlike many of their Tanganyikan mouthbrooding brethren, cyps do not require an overly specialized diet. Their natural diet in the wild is primarily zooplankton and they enjoy small crustaceans in the aquarium. I feed mine mostly flakes, frozen brine shrimp and daphnia, and freeze-dried cyclopeeze. Basically cyps will thrive on the same diet you feed julies, shellies and most other lamprologines.
As noted above, there are several varieties of C. leptosoma. These varieties fall within two major groupings that probably represent separate species. The first group is the original C. leptosoma, whose most popular varieties are probably the "blue flash" ( both from Malasa and Isanga) and the "Utinta". These varieties grow to a maximum length of about 3 inches, and they subscribe to the typical coloration described above, although males of the "blue falsh" also have a streak of bright blue or purple on the top front of their bodies, giving them their name.
The second grouping is sometimes described as C. leptosoma "Jumbo" and, as the name implies, can grow much larger than the first group - up to about six inches in total length. The most popular variety of jumbo is probably the "tri-color", and while some jumbos show the typical color scheme, there are some significant variations - some quite beautiful, some more drab.
My own experience with cyps is with the smaller, original group, and specifically the "Blue Flash Malasa" variety. Although some books claim these fish need a lot of space, I keep 10 adults and several sub-adults in a 55-gallon tank without any problems, and with some breeding success. Based on some research on the internet, it seems that many hobbyists have success with cyps in a 48 inch tanks, and often smaller ones. My cyps have as tank mates a breeding colony of Neolamprologus multifasciatus that live in shells and about 7 Synodontis petricola catfish that live in ceramic caves. The different species generally keep out of each other's way - the "multis" living among their shells, the cyps taking up the mid to upper levels of the tank, and the catfish generally staying in their caves during the day. I find the combination of colorful cyps darting around, active multies taking care of their shells and guarding their young, and the occasional appearance of a beautiful catfish coming out of it's cave to be a very pleasing setup.
Unlike many mouthbrooders, cyps are best kept in a group with about the same number of males as females. I am sure that a pure harem of one or two males with lots of females will work out as well. Bit since the males are more colorful, and you can keep several together, you might as well. What would probably not work out as well would be to keep just a pair, since the male would be overly attentive to the female. But with multiple males to show off to and multiple females to attend to, no one female will be overly harassed by the dominant male.
So how do cyps breed? Unlike virtually any other cichlid. As previously described, the cyp can live totally independent of the substrate. The female actually lays her eggs in mid-water, where the male fertilizes them, after which the female backs up to catch the newly fertilized eggs in her mouth. Ad Konings shows pictures of this in some of his Tanganyikan cichlid books, but I have never been fortunate enough to witness it for myself. It must be fascinating to watch if you are ever lucky enough to catch the fish in the act.
In my case, the female carrying the eggs is very noticeable by the large bulge in the front of her throat. There is no need to remove her from the tank, at least if there are several other females there to keep the male's attention away. After two or three weeks of holding the eggs, you should be able to see the fry's eyes through the stretched skin of the mother's throat. The female should release the fry after about three weeks, but in a community tank, she may not have a quiet enough spot to do so ( releasing fry is the one time in the cyp life cycle where a new cave typically gets used.)
But fortunately, stripping her is easy enough. When she is about ready to release - about 3 weeks after laying the eggs - it is often sufficient just to lift her out of the tank in a net and put her in a small container. After a few minutes in the container she will have likely released all her fry. But you may want to gently lift the female out of the container and put her back into it a few times to be sure. In any case, there is no ned to manipulate her mouth in any way. Note that with cyps, once the fry are released there is no turning back. The mother offers no more protection for the fry after she releases them, although neither she or the other adult cyps make any attempt to eat the fry.
A typical spawn will result in about six fry. Each is fairly large and more than capable of eating newly hatched brine shrimp. I place any newly released fry in a breeding net in the same tank as the parents. I start out by feeding the fry a dry powder combination of Hikari First Bites mixed with a little spirulina powder. I also feed de-capsulated brine shrimp eggs. Soon they have grown enough to take cyclopeeze, and soon after that, frozen daphnia.
One problem I have encountered with breeding cyps occurs when I get too anxious to strip the female, and do so early. In that case the fry may still have their yolk sac attached, but as typical with cyps, that problem is easily rectified. The fry can be grown in breeder nets even with the yolk sac attached. It is just important to make sure that the adults in the main tank cannot get at the yolk, since the yolk is too much of a temptation for them to resist, and fry with the yolk sac lie immobile at the bottom of the net. The best solution is to use a net within a net, so the fry are separated from the bottom of the outside net. Alternatively, just rear them in a separate tank.
For anyone with a Tanganyikan tank with julies and shellies, and other substrate spawners seeking a new challenge, Cyprichromis leptosoma is a perfect addition. I hope you will give them a try.